1995 Château d'Yquem, Sauternes

Grape (s): Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc

Producer: Château d'Yquem

I won't even lie. I haven't had enough Château d'Yquem to be able to say things like,"the '84 was merely satisfying compared to the '90 which demonstrated a character more consistent with its classic presentation though neither transcend the '75 - the year of my naissance - which to date, has been the most sublime of my collection". In fact, I was a little annoyed by the memory of all the d'Yquem sonnets that blitzed to mind as I held my glass looking forward to the first taste. This, like all of the great Bordeaux wines, is one I wanted to try without the dissonance of a hundred critiques clashing in my head. Was it excellent? Yes, it was. Nectar of the gods? I'd need two weeks and a half-dozen vertical flights to even begin to differentiate average, good and heavenly (call me!). In fact, don't even count this as a critique. It's more of a first impression with lots of room for improvement. With Premier Cru Supérieur Classe cred, there is no room for other bottle drama. Clear the table, change the glasses and let's get classy.

1. Deep golden hue - like a burst of sunlight.

2. Subtle and defined strata (at the same time?!) of apricot, quince, tangerine, vanilla bean and saffron. Is it odd to note a pile of wet leaves? No. That means autumn freshness funky fungal botrytis so let's go with it.

3. Finally an equally decadent, full body sweetness that coats the cheeks with an eternity of clementine.

You couldn't rush this wine if you tried. So take a seat and stick your pinky out. This is nobility in a glass.